Ayvalik is an old sea side town situated on the North-western Aegean coast of turkey, approximately 160 km North of Izmir, and 355 km South of Istanbul; originally inhabited by the Greeks until the mid 1920's, it still has the characteristics of an old Greek town, with wonderful Ottoman Greek houses and old churches visible throughout.
The town is located on a coastal bay, where you can gaze across the Aegean Sea to the Greek Island of Mytilini, or alternatively view the nearby Island of Alibey (also known as Cunda) which has the riches of empty beaches, olive and pine trees and ancient monasteries scattered on the hill tops.
Ayvalik has a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets that are tributaries leading down to the busy market area and harbour front, where you can spend your day perusing through the wonderful variety of shops, or just relax by the waterside watching the fishing boats come and go; alternatively take the ferry boat across to Alibey to visit the restaurants and tavernas.
The surrounding hillside is laden with groves of Olive trees, which are famous for producing much of Turkey's highly appreciated quality olive oil; also the hills accommodate copious amounts of pine trees that assist in Ayvalik boasting some of the best levels of air quality within Turkey with it's high levels of oxygen. A well-known beauty spot is locally known as "Devil's Table", where the views are spectacular and it is a must to witness the stunning sunset at the end of the day.
Near to the town are two fabulous sandy beaches, Altinova and Sarimsakli, which are easily accessible by the local bus service (Dolmus), taxi or car; the beaches are un-crowded and teems of fish are visible through the crystal clear water. Ayvalik has gained the reputation of being one of Turkey's best locations for scuba diving, and you can also take boat trips from the harbour that will deliver you to various bays throughout the day to take a dip to cool off during your trip.
Nightlife in Ayvalik is of a relaxed atmosphere, where you can frequent the many waterside open-air restaurants, bars and tavernas or simply stroll along the harbour front absorbing the idyllic atmosphere.
Shopping
Within a few minutes walk of the house, in the heart of the town and harbour, the Turkish tourists throng the many waterside open-air restaurants. There are a vast number of shops in Ayvalik ranging from clothes and leather goods to traditional shops and side street establishments where iron mongers and bakers can be found hard at work.
There are several mini markets to do your grocery shopping or wait until Market day when the Greeks come over from Lesvos, along with visitors in their hoards. You can pick up some wonderful fruit and veg bargains or 'genuine fake' designer clothing as well as the real thing, along with some beautiful handmade embroidery and leather goods, but don't forget to bargain! Fresh fish can be bought in abundance from Ayvalik's daily fish market, which is an amazing sight to just browse or buy and cook back at home!
Things to do
Probably one of your first visits should be to Seytan Sofrasi (Devil's Table). This is the highest peak in Ayvalik and is renowned for it's spectacular views over the entire area and in particular it's sunset over the Aegean sea and the islands. There are restaurants and cafes at the tope and a Turkish teahouse where you can relax and enjoy the surrounding beauty.
Along the harbour front, just past the restaurants you are faced with the daily boat tours, which is an absolute must and excellent value for money. About six or so large boats will be persuading you to join their crew for a trip around some of the smaller islands with several swim stops and of course a delicious lunch, of fried sardines, bread and salad -which never seems to stop!
Further along, just before you get to the marina, you will come across a local diving centre, which provides various courses for different levels of experience. The depths of the sea around Ayvalik reveal plenty of different species of fish, marine creatures and corals. You will also see people fishing all around Ayvalik. Basic fishing tackle is available by the fish market, or fishing boat trips from the harbour are available.
Between the fish market and the marina is a jetty with boat trips to Cunda Island (Alibey), this is also a must. The ferry runs late into the evening - although it can also be reached by car, dolmus or bus across the causeway. Cunda has a lot to offer with numerous restaurants along the quayside, but wander into the pretty village as well because there are other restaurants and bars which might be cheaper. Musicians tend to turn up with a guitar and play Turkish love songs whilst you eat and drink into the small hours.
I have bought home made butter and cheese on Cunda which is absolutely delicious. There is also a range of little stalls where you can buy locally made jewellery, pottery and textiles very cheaply for yourself and gifts to take home.
Of course there are beaches by foot on Cunda as well, but if you are hiring a car or a moped can access other beauty spots like Patricia or the ruins of Moonlight Monastery.
Beaches
Down at the harbour you can get a dolmus or taxi to the nearby beach of Sarmisakli which is approx. 5k along the coast road and is the best place to swim where the vast stretch of beautiful beach and white sand welcomes you. You can hire jet ski's, paddle boats and depending on which end of the beach you are there is a banana boat as well.
Just before Sarimsakli, between the road and the pine forest is the beautiful beach of Badavut, which is quieter than Sarimsakli and has cafes selling simple food at reasonable prices.
Climate
The average temperatures range from 21°C to 30°C during April-September but there have been highs of 31°C to 43°C during the same period. The region has a typical Mediterranean climate with mild and rainy winters with hot dry summers.
Transport
There are various ways of getting to Ayvalik; the most direct route would mean flying into Izmir ADB Airport and either hiring a car or getting a taxi from the airport, which could be arranged on your behalf. Last summer this was about £60.00 UK sterling. Transfer time from the airport to Ayvalik is about 2.5 hours, the distance being approximately 91 miles along the coastal duel carriageway; alternatively take a taxi to the bus station in Izmir and a coach to Ayvalik which is incredibly cheap. Another option favoured by some is to fly to Mytilene (Lesbos) and get the ferry across to Ayvalik that takes around 40 minutes, I know First Choice fly to Mytilene. However, I believe there is only one crossing per day, i.e. from Mytilene to Ayvalik at around 08.30 in the morning and returning at around 18.30 in the evening. Details are available through Jale Lines Ferries (jaletour-@hotmail.com). An alternative is to fly to Istanbul and get a domestic flight to Korfez Airport, Edremit, and then a taxi or hire care to Ayvalik, which is then only 40 minutes away. One can also get a ferry from Istanbul to the new ferry terminal in Ayvalik (takes about 6 hours), which is due to be opened this summer.
There is talk that the Korfez airport may receive International fights some time in the future, but this is yet to be confirmed.
Whichever route you decide it will be an adventure, and a well worth one, because the delights awaiting you upon arrival to our house and Ayvalik will become treasured memories.
